Food on the Hill: Victor and Frida

Food on the Hill
By FELICIA ORTH
 
Victor and Frida
 
This Week’s Recipes:
Cold Chiles with Vegetable Stuffing and Christmas Salad

Victor Medina retired from the Laboratory in 2005 and acted on his dream of owning a restaurant in late 2013. He has made the Manhattan Project on Central a special place to enjoy a nice lunch or dinner in downtown Los Alamos. The menu is broad and reasonably priced. I love that I can design my own veggie platter, and my younger son is especially fond of the “Hippie Chick” sandwich.

I first met Victor as part of some special event planning. Our conversation was easy and touched on a number of topics: food, history and religion in New Mexico, Mexico, Spain, conversos, Pancho Villa, graphic novels and Frida Kahlo. We later exchanged books and met again for a similarly wide-ranging discussion. 

The book Victor lent me was “Frida’s Fiestas, Recipes and Reminiscences of Life with Frida Kahlo” by Guadalupe Rivera and Marie-Pierre Colle (1994). Ms. Rivera’s parents were Diego Rivera, the noted Mexican painter and muralist, and Diego’s second wife, novelist Guadalupe Marin, to whom he was married prior to his marriage to Frida. Ms. Rivera went to live with Frida and Diego when she was a teenager. She has set out Frida’s daily routines and shared the dishes Frida served as part of regular joyous celebrations.  

Although Frida suffered lifelong health challenges after having been badly injured as a teenager in a trolley accident, Ms. Rivera notes that she was “an enthusiast, and every occasion was cause for rejoicing.” She celebrated popular holidays, saints’ days, birthdays and baptisms, preparing a number of traditional dishes favored by Diego for every party. 

The book is lush with photographs of Frida and Diego, the Blue House in Coyoacan, tables covered with dishes ready for a party, vintage portraits and other paintings. It is organized into parts by 12 fiestas, starting with the menu served at Frida and Diego’s wedding in August 1929, continuing through Mexico’s national holidays in September, a birthday party in October, Day of the Dead in November, the Posadas in December, and other special events through July. 

Each menu incorporates seasonally fresh foods, and includes a reminiscence as an introduction. The stuffed chiles below were part of a meatless meal for Lent in March; the salad is from the menu for the Posadas in December. Both dishes were a hit with my family. Que Viva Mexico, Victor and Frida!

Cold Chiles with Vegetable Stuffing

Photo by Felicia Orth

Serves 8 (adapted to reduce cream)   

Ingredients

16 poblano chiles, roasted, seeded and deveined
2 medium onions, sliced
¼ cup white vinegar
1 tablespoon each fresh thyme, oregano, marjoram and cilantro
1 bay leaf
1 cup chopped cooked cauliflower
1 cup chopped cooked carrots
1 cup cooked peas
4 avocados, peeled and cubed
2 scallions, finely chopped
½ cup olive oil
3 tablespoons vinegar
Salt and pepper
½ heavy cream (original recipe calls for 3 cups)
1/2 lb anejo cheese, crumbled, or sheep feta, crumbled

Preparation

Place the chiles in a saucepan with water to cover. Add the onions, white vinegar and herbs and cook until tender. Drain and let cool. Combine the vegetables with the oil, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Stuff the chiles with the vegetable mixture. Top with cream, sprinkle with cheese and serve at room temperature.

Note: the recipe does not say how the vegetables are cooked; I roasted the carrots and cauliflower with olive oil at 400 degrees before mixing with the peas, scallions and avocados.

Christmas Salad

Photo by Felicia Orth
 

Christmas Salad

Serves 8 (adapted to add pomegranate seeds)

Ingredients

2 medium jicamas, peeled and sliced
2 oranges, peeled and sliced
2 medium beets, cooked, peeled and sliced (I used several baby beets instead)
¾ cup shelled peanuts, chopped
1 pomegranate, separated into seeds

For the Vinaigrette

6 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
Salt and pepper

Preparation

Arrange a circle of sliced jicama around the edge of a large serving platter, then the orange slices and, in the center, the beet slices. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and sprinkle with the peanuts and pomegranate seeds.

To make the vinaigrette, combine all ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake to blend well.

Felicia is a local home cook and can be reached at orthf@yahoo.com.

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