Liddie’s Traditional New Mexican Dishes: White Peach And Rosemary Thumbprints

White Peach and Rosemary Thumbprints. Photo by Liddie Martinez

Video on how to prepare White Peach and Rosemary Thumbprints. Video by Liddie Martinez

By LIDDIE MARTINEZ
Española Valley

Families have been growing peaches in the Española Valley since the late 1500s and while they are a staple that we have grown to rely on, their appearance is always an event to celebrate. Each July I anticipate their arrival. While apples are still the mainstay as far as orchards go, and continue to be the stars of our fruit cultivation, peaches, apricots and plums were also among the fruits introduced by the Spanish during colonization and are just as beloved by our locals, me included.

We know the history of the apple rather well, and the history of peaches was also well documented if lesser known. Peaches were well traveled morsels voyaging from China to Persia to Greece, then off to Italy, France and eventually Spain to board the trek known as El Camino Real. Peaches were introduced to Mexico in the mid-1500s and then to Northern New Mexico just before the end of the 16th century. As the Franciscans moved from Pueblo to Pueblo establishing missions, they also directed the building of large gardens and taught the population European gardening techniques; among those skills was the grafting of trees and vines. Thus, the first orchards and vineyards in the new world were developed in our own back yards.

Because peaches bloom later in the season than apricots do, they are less vulnerable to the freeze and are much more widely grown and harvested in Alcalde, Velarde, Embudo and El Duende, among other growing communities.

The other critical ingredient in this recipe is Rosemary or Romero in Spanish. This herb, most commonly used for cooking, has a long history of use for its medicinal properties and is native to the Mediterranean. My grandmother used it often in a salve for muscle pain, brewed as a tea to boost immunity and as a hair rinse, after washing, to promote growth and prevent balding. But my favorite use was to improve memory.  In Victorian times, small bouquets sent to long distance girlfriends always had rosemary in them as it was the flower of remembrance.The scent triggers memory. Rosemary essential oil rubbed on the temples or used in a vaporizer for aroma therapy has shown significant benefits for Alzheimer’s patients.

When you are making this jam for your thumbprint cookies, the aroma that fills your house is reason enough to make them, but the taste is surprisingly satisfying and familiar…

For this recipe I recommend white freestone peaches but any peach will work. If using cling peaches, peel and cut the flesh away from the stone before cooking.

White Peach & Rosemary Preserves

2                          white peaches peeled, pitted & chopped

½ cup                  sugar

¼ cup                  orange juice

1 bundle             Rosemary tied in a bouquet garnish

Combine peaches, sugar and juice in a heavy sauce pan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.  Lower flame to simmer for 18-20 minutes. Add rosemary and gently press bouquet garni down into jam reduction and simmer for a full 2 minutes. Remove from flame, cover and allow to cool for 10 minutes.  Remove garni and stir preserves before using.

Thumbprint Cookies

1 cup                  butter

¾ cup                  powdered sugar, sifted

2                          egg yolks

1 Tbsp.               vanilla

½ tsp.                  almond extract

½ tsp.                  salt

2 ½ cups             flour

½ cup                  sugar for coating

1/3 cup               preserves

Beat butter until pale and fluffy. Add powdered sugar and beat until well combined. Add egg yolks one at a time.  Scrape down bowl. Add vanilla, almond extract and salt and beat until combined then add flour in thirds beating each time until fully combined. Dough will be soft. Preheat oven to 325°.

Roll dough balls between hands, coat in sugar and place on parchment lined baking sheets. Press thumb into center of dough balls and fill prints with preserves being careful not to over fill. Bake for 20-22 minutes until bottoms are golden brown.

Makes about 6 dozen cookies.

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