After my initial arrival in Marrakech and some time getting acclimated to the exciting country of Morocco, I realized that it was time for the obligatory visit to the desert and camel ride.

I took a bus over the breathtaking High Atlas Mountains to Ouarzazate, and spent three days exploring the film industry there and in the historic walled ksar of Aït Ben Haddou (Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator, for example). I also enjoyed grilled kabobs at the local’s joint El Bahja (and made a cat very full and happy).

Another night I feasted on Chevreau M’Kalli, soupe glacée aux concombres and tarte citron at Le Relais de Saint-Exupery, and investigated the memorabilia of the author of The Little Prince, including a photograph of the author with his Caudron Simoun, a 1930’s French four-seat touring monoplane, at the Ouarzazate Airport. 

A highlight of my do-it-yourself tour out of Marrakech was my three day visit at Chez Youssef in Merzouga on the edge of the Sahara Desert. With a regular tour, I could not have stayed at this friendly lodge as there are only four bedrooms.

I took a Supratours bus from Ouarzazate, and arrived after dark. The owner Youssef met me when the bus arrived, and walked me the couple of blocks to his lovely establishment. 

Chez Youssef is a friendly and very comfortable place to spend one night or several. In addition to good beds, a/c, and private baths, there are good wifi and electrical outlets.

The courtyard in the middle of the riad has a palm tree and a bubbling fountain, and is frequented by a family of house sparrows who enjoy the refreshing water. Food at the lodge is excellent, and is served in this quiet refuge. The complimentary breakfast is tasty and filling. On the final evening Youssef prepared a meatball tagine for me that was a delicious symphony of flavors. 

Youssef arranged a camel trek for me, which departed in the late afternoon just down a lane from the lodge. Holding on tightly to the iron handgrip, we headed off into the huge orange-colored dunes of Erg Chebbi. We arrived at the Berber camp in the desert as the evening shadows were lengthening. The guides cooked a delicious dinner of chicken tagine accompanied by wonderful round Moroccan bread.

In the middle of the night, I climbed up on the dunes and was treated to a magnificent canopy of stars in the dark sky. Aldebaran, the eye of the constellation Taurus, glowered brightly at the imposing figure of Orion the Hunter.

Later, just before dawn, the moon over Morocco shone on my face through small holes in the tent roof. Outside on the moonlit dunes, I was treated to the vertical alignment of Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and the Moon.

The next day the lodge arranged a trip through the surrounding countryside in a 4×4 with fellow guests, two friendly couples from the Canary Islands. The trip included a stop to hear some live Berber music, panoramic views of the Sahara Desert, wild donkeys, and nomads with herds of sheep, goats, and camels. In the distance we could see military posts on the Algerian border.

Editor’s Note: Since retiring from Los Alamos County in September 2013, David Griggs has been traveling the world. He is a foreign correspondent for the Los Alamos Daily Post, submitting stories and photographs of his travels for publication.